Bali: settled (sort of)
Bali: settled (sort of)
Life in a marina tied between two other boats is never truly settled, particularly when one of them is having his hull polished--labor is $11 US a day--and frequently changes his position in the slip. One side is almost done, and he plans to turn his boat around late this afternoon, probably after I have already left for Kuta Beach and then the airport, so I just repositioned THE HAWKE OF TUONELA as close as possible to the other boat.
With the exception of one incompetent, who unfortunately was on duty the day I arrived, the marina staff want to please; and the bar/restaurant is very good. The showers are not heated, but after an initial chill, that isn’t necessary in this climate. Laundry is dropped off at the office and taken elsewhere to be done. All mine--mostly passage clothes, but including sheets and a sleeping bag--came back more neatly folded than it deserved for $10.
A double size bottle of the good local beer, Bintang, costs $2, and most meals between $3 and $5.
While there is water on the dock, it is metered and not drinkable. I bought eight 5 gallon bottles of what purports to be Dannon bottled water for $12 to refill my tanks, and am not ill yet.
The one thing that is very expensive is the Internet. For $12 you get a generous amount of time, but only a total of 33 megabytes of upload and download. Even with only essential usage, I’m already on my third card.
The land on which the port buildings sit hangs like a drop at the end of a mile long causeway leading north to the main part of the island, which is necessary because the water is shallow in that direction, yet the chief city of the island, Denpasar, is there.
There aren’t any really big ships here, but many small to moderate size ones, and many fishing boats and inter-island craft that still carry masts, but proceed mostly under power.
I walked down to the south end of the port area, about a half mile. There can be no doubt you are in the third world. Lots of rubble. Some interrupted construction. Many young men sitting around, some seeking work.
Several day trip boats leave from in or around the marina, though not as many as Cairns.
Across the harbor to the southeast in what was once a sleepy fishing village, there are hotels and usually at least five or six parachutes being towed behind power boats.
I’ve been away from the port area twice, once to ride with my neighbor and some other sailors to a supermarket, and yesterday by taxi to Sanur Beach, a few miles north and east of here. As I recalled traffic is world class bad, with motorbikes outnumbering cars and the concept of lanes unknown.
I didn’t need anything at the supermarket; just doing a reconnaissance.
Sanur Beach was undeveloped, except for a Bali Hyatt Hotel, when I was here before. Now there are several hotels, and many restaurants directly on the beach. Nevertheless it was relatively tranquil. My lunch there of mei goreng--friend noodles--and satay was good, but not as good as the food here at the marina, and a bit more expensive.
Several cars and taxis are usually sitting outside the marina grounds waiting for fares, which are mostly negotiable. I paid $6 for the ride to Sanur. When I was ready to return I went to one of the hotels, where the taxis had meters. I did not know such things existed. The return trip only cost $4.
The boat is pretty much sorted out. The things that need repair or replacement, such as the spinnaker, cockpit speakers, and masthead wind unit, can’t be fixed here and aren’t essential.
The thermometer says it is only 86º in early afternoon, but it seems hotter.
We’ve had brief rain early two mornings.
I’ve now revisited enough places I had been to in the 1980s to conclude that in twenty years the world becomes more crowded, in some ways more convenient, and less charming.
The big news is that Carol arrives in nine hours.
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The picture is of THE HAWKE OF TUONELA tyring to go slow on the passage from Darwin under storm sail when she should have had up a spinnaker.
Friday, July 4, 2008